Car Maintenance Checklist

How To Use This Checklist

Your Handbook Comes First

This checklist is a one-size-fits-all type overview of what to do to keep your car out of the garage and on the road for as long as possible. 

Checks To Do Yourself and Jobs for a Garage

some of the simplest car checks can be done while your car is sitting on your driveway, and can usually be completed by just taking an extra 5-10 minutes out of your day before you have to leave, including: 

• Checking your lights and indicators
• Keeping on top of your tyre condition and tread depth 

If you’re needing to carry out heavier work like checking under the car for leaks, or changing fluids, timing chains, spark plugs etc, then you’re much better off taking the car to a professional who can carry it out safely, with no risk of damaging the vehicle. 

Of course doing it yourself is usually the cheaper option, but it won’t be if you do something that causes more damage to the car than good. 

Weekly Checks

Tyre Pressure and Condition

Checking your tyre pressures is one of the easiest pieces of car maintenance you can carry out. The simplest way is to pull up to one of the air machines at your local petrol station – most cost between 50p and £1 and accept cards. Simply check your user manual (or online) for your designated pressures, set the machine to the required pressure and go around your car checking each tyre and adding/removing air when necessary.

Alternatively, you can purchase basic tyre pressure gauges online for around £10, meaning you can check the tyres without having to leave the driveway. 

Engine Oil Level

Checking your oil level is another simple check: make sure you’re on a flat surface, pop the bonnet open, locate and remove the dipstick, wipe it clean and then reinsert it to its usual home. 

Once it’s been fully inserted, pull it out again and you should be able to see where the oil reads on the measurement labels. These will either be labelled as Min/Max, L/F or simply just notches on the stick.

If you have been driving, you’ll need to leave the car for about 10-15 minutes before carrying out a reading, to allow the oil to return to the bottom of the pan.

Screenwash and Washer Jets

Knowing if your screenwash is running low is simple, as you’ll notice less of the liquid spraying onto your windscreen when you use the indicator. 

The obvious problem will be that your car has run out of washer fluid, and topping it up is a simple job of pouring the liquid from the bottle into the reservoir. The reservoir often has a blue (sometimes black) cap with an image of a windscreen wiper, and is made of a translucent plastic material. Use this to gauge how much you need to pour in.

If after filling the reservoir you still notice no fluid reaches your screen, then check where the jet is pointing, as it could be going directly over the car. Alternatively, there may be a blockage, and in order to fix it you’ll need to insert a sewing needle (or similar) into the nozzle hole to remove any debris. This can also be used to move the jet if it’s aiming the wrong way.

Lights and Indicators

Checking your lights can be done alone, but it’s best to have a friend with you as it will require a little bit of assistance in parts. Simply park up with your headlights and your hazard lights on, and have a walk around the car to ensure they’re all working correctly. If you have a friend with you, get them to step outside and check, while you test your full beam, brake lights and fog lights.

If you’re alone, then don’t worry, you’ll just need to park close to a wall, garage door or glass window and check your reflection. You’ll have to do this both ways, of course, to check your lights at both the front and the rear..

New Noises and Warning Lights

Any time you hear a new noise or see a warning light on your dashboard, you should get them checked as soon as possible.Warning lights are colour coded, and amber lights suggest that the problem is important, but can wait until the next suitable stop. Red lights, however, are serious faults that require an immediate stop to check.

When it comes to noises, if you hear a squeaking or grinding sound when pressing the brake pedal, then you’ll want to go to the garage as soon as possible for a new set of brake pads. Any clunking noises going over bumps is likely to see parts in your suspension or steering replaced, while if they happen while changing gear you may be having an expensive trip for a new gearbox.

Finally, if you hear tapping from your engine, then you will need to visit a garage or car parts shop as soon as possible, as it’s highly likely you are running out of oil, and driving for much longer could result in severe engine damage.

Monthly Checks

Tread Depth and Uneven Wear

If you have no coins, then don’t despair. You can pick up tyre tread measurers fairly easily from specialist car parts shops. While checking your tread depth, it’s useful to also have a look at the condition of your tyre in general. There should be even wear across the face of the tyre, and if there isn’t it suggests that you’ve been driving with incorrect tyre pressures or your alignment is incorrect.

We’ve already put together a complete guide on checking tyre depth, explaining exactly what to do and how to sort it if you do have uneven tyre wear.

Coolant Level

To test your coolant levels you’ll need to make sure you’re parked on a level surface with the engine completely cold – so don’t check it just as you finish a drive. Hot coolant is pressurised, so opening this while still warm can cause severe burns. Open the bonnet and have a look for a clear plastic expansion tank. If you can’t find it, then refer to your owner’s handbook, as this will show clearly how to find it.

The liquid should sit firmly between the min and max lines, ideally closer to the max line. If you need to top up, refer again to your owner’s handbook to ensure you’re using the correct manufacturer approved coolant. Pour it in using a funnel and stop when you reach the maximum line. Do not overfill due to the pressurised nature of the coolant when driving.

Brake Fluid Level

As with other fluid level checks, to check your brake fluid level you’ll need to park on a flat surface, pop the bonnet and find the brake fluid reservoir. This is usually towards the rear of the engine bay on the driver’s side, and often has a yellow icon with an octagonal shape on it. 

If you can’t find it, refer to your owner’s manual. 

Check the levels using the markers at the side of the container, and if it’s low then you’ll need to top it up. You may also need to check your brake pads, as low fluid often suggests worn pads or a leak somewhere in the system,

If you do need to top it up, then you should make sure you wipe the cap first, as any dirt dropping into the reservoir could cause you further problems along the road. Check your owner’s manual again to ensure you’ve got the right specification of brake fluid, and then carefully pour it into the max line using a funnel. Wipe up any spills immediately as brake fluid will damage your car’s paintwork. 

Wipers and Windscreen

It’s always easy to tell when you need new windscreen wipers, as they begin to lose their effectiveness at clearing your screen when you turn them on. If they’ve started to smear, then it’s likely there’s either some damage on the blades themselves, or you’ve got something unfortunate on your windscreen that needs clearing with more than a wiper.

Most wipers come with an easy clip off-clip on process, making changing them a 30 second job. If you’re not confident, most shops will offer a service to do this for you, for a small fee. Again, make sure you’re using the correct blade, as they’re not a simple one-size-fits-all product, and the wrong blade could make things ever worse for you.

Leaks Under the Car

If you notice a leak under your car, it doesn’t necessarily mean you have a problem – it’s all dependent on what is leaking.

If you notice a clear liquid, then it’s likely going to be water condensation from the air-conditioning unit and is perfectly normal. If there is a black, brown or amber liquid you’re likely leaking oil of some kind, either from the engine or the gearbox. A pink or red liquid is likely to be power steering or transmission fluid, while a green, yellow, orange or blue liquid is usually antifreeze – this is easy to tell as it also has a sweet smell.

If you have a dark brown or slimy liquid, then you must call a garage immediately as this will very likely be brake fluid.

In the event of a simple loose hose or worn seals, then these can often be fixed fairly easily and quickly. 

Number Plates and Horn

Maintaining a number plate is simply a case of keeping it clean. Having a clear and visible registration number is a law of the road.Simply wipe it down with warm soapy water every few weeks, or better yet, just keep your car clean in general. 

As annoying as some car horns can be, they are very important safety features of a car, and making sure yours is in working order is a key maintenance job. Simply test it every few weeks to ensure the connection stays clear. 

Every Six Months 

Battery Health

Testing a car’s battery health is something that not many people can do at home, as it requires a multimeter to measure the resting voltage and power surges. This is something that is usually covered in most services, whether it’s interim or full. If you’re unsure, speak to your garage when you go in for your next service.

Engine Air Filter

In order to replace your car’s filter, you’ll need to ensure you get the correct part, so make sure you use either the owner’s manual or specialist services online if doing this yourself. Park on a flat surface, and find the black box housing the filter under the bonnet. Once found, loosen any screws and release any retaining clips, and very carefully remove the old filter to ensure no debris falls into the engine itself. Make a note of how it originally went in, gently give the area a clean and replace the new one.

Cabin Filter

One of the hardest parts of changing a cabin filter might well be locating it first, as they can be behind the glovebox, under the dashboard or even near the wiper cowl under the bonnet. Refer to your owner’s handbook to find out where yours is. 

Then, once the cover has been removed, remove the old filter either by releasing the tabs or loosening some screws (again, this varies car to car). Gently remove the filter, clean the housing as it is likely to have trapped leaves and debris from the road, and then insert the new filter. Make sure the airflow arrows are pointing in the same direction as the original filter was.

With the filter replaced, you’ll now need to reassemble the housing and reattach your glovebox. Of course if you’re worried, you can ask your local garage – although this is usually included in a full service.

Air Conditioning

One of the easiest ways to maintain your car’s air conditioning is to regularly run it, even in the winter. A quick flush through for about 10-15 minutes every couple of weeks should be enough to keep it in good working order. By doing so, you ensure that the refrigerant oil is circulated. 

Maintaining your air con is also linked to your cabin filter, and ensuring you keep up with the maintenance on the filter, it should ensure good air flow for improved air conditioning performance. Finally, your air conditioning will require recharging every couple of years, replenishing lost gas and lubricating any moving parts. This can be done at most garages and major high street car parts specialists.

Spare Wheel or Repair Kit

The spare wheel or puncture repair kit usually sits in your boot and gets forgotten about – until you need them, that is. Most liquid sealer canisters have a shelf life of four to five years, and you’ll need to make sure these are in date. Checking these every few months should keep you prepared should their needs arise.

Annual Checks and Servicing

What Does a Car Service Include?

What’s included in a car service is largely influenced by the type of service you’re booked in for. As a general rule, though, a service will include oil changes, fluid topups, basic safety checks and visual inspections of brake discs and pads. 

Interim, Full and Major Services

There are three levels to car services, and they are determined by both time and mileage milestones. Interim services tend to take place every six months (or 6,000 miles), a full (otherwise known as a “main”) service takes place every 12 months (or 12,000 miles), while a Major service is every two years (or 24,000 miles).

Both the full and major service include everything featured in an interim service, so your engine oil and oil filter will be changed, your coolant, screen wash and power steering fluid will all be topped up, alongside visual inspections of brakes, lights, wipers, tyres and a safety check for your steering.

When you go for a full service, you’re also including a replacement air filter and a test of the battery health and alternator charging rate. Your suspension, exhaust system, fuel lines and steering joints are also checked alongside an assessment of your tyre wear. 

Finally, a major service includes all of the above alongside a replacement of spark plugs, fuel filters, brake fluid and an inspection of the gearbox oil, drive belts and coolant hoses.

Oil and Filter Intervals

Generally, oil changes should take place every 10,000 miles – or 12 months. However, that can vary depending on your car’s specific manufacturer guidelines and the type of oil you’re using. Full-synthetic oil, for example, can last longer without a change than conventional oil. 

Refer to your owner’s manual for the specific interval for your car. You will also find that your driving habits can alter your oil change intervals. For example, you should change your oil more regularly if you mostly do short trips where the engine doesn’t get to fully warm up, or spend a lot of time in stop-start city traffic.

You should also change your oil filter when you change your engine oil to ensure that any trapped debris or contaminants do not make their way into your new oil.

Brake Fluid and Coolant Intervals

Most brake fluid replacements should take place every two years. High performance cars should change their brakes every 6-12 months due to the extreme heat cycles they’re put through.

Coolant, meanwhile, can have intervals anywhere between two to five years (or 30,000 to 100,000 miles) depending on the type of coolant your car uses. 

Cambelt, Chain and Spark Plugs

Cambelts wear over time, even if you’re not putting the miles in, and if it snaps, can cause catastrophic engine damage. Most cambelts require changing every four to six years, or 40,000 – 100,000 miles, whichever comes first. 

Your timing chain should last the lifetime of the vehicle, although it usually starts being checked around the 80,000 mile mark. Regular oil changes keeps the timing chain healthy, and changing a timing chain is a major job that will often render the car economically written off.

Your spark plugs will again be changed at different intervals depending on the material they’re made of. Copper plugs need to be changed every 20,000 to 30,000 miles, while platinum or iridium plugs every 60,000 to 100,000 miles. 

Any small mistake while carrying out major maintenance tasks can result in significant damage that can cause major changes to your car’s value, so we’d recommend using a specialist.

Seasonal Checks

Before Winter

To prepare your car for winter, you should ensure that all fluid levels are where you need them to be, particularly your antifreeze.. You’ll also want to make sure you’ve got a winter-specific screenwash. Frozen fluid and jets can play havoc with your car’s screenwash system, so make sure the screenwash you’re using can withstand freezing temperatures down to at least -15°C 

While winter-proofing your screenwash, it’s a good idea to check your wiper blades for any streakmarks. You’re far more likely to use them in the winter, and with grit and dirt much more likely to be on the road, you’re going to need wipers that work properly. With road surfaces in mind, it’s also highly recommended to check your car’s tread depth going into the inclement weather. Cold weather also reduces air pressure, so make sure your tyres are still at the correct manufacturer-approved pressures. You could also consider winter tyres for improved grip, especially if you live somewhere susceptible to wintery conditions such as snow and ice.

With the long nights drawing in, you’ll also want to check that all of your lights are working correctly, and that your battery can still hold a strong enough charge should you be stranded anywhere for long periods. 

You should also have a well-stocked emergency kit. Ice scraper and de-icer is a must, and most drivers will keep this close to hand for those winter morning commutes. It’s also worth making sure you have a torch (with spare batteries), some warm clothes, sturdy shoes, jump leads, a first aid kit and a small snow shovel in your boot, just in case you do get stuck at the side of the road for any reason.

Before Summer

While not as risky as in the winter, you still need to make sure your car is ready for driving throughout the summer. 

Check fluid levels, particularly your coolant to prevent your engine from overheating should you get stuck in traffic in the heat.

Before a Long Journey

Make sure your tyres are at the correct pressures – the wrong pressure could increase the risk of puncture but will also impact your fuel consumption, and given the current cost of fuel, you’ll want to make sure you’re not using any unnecessarily. 

Also check your fuel level, and fill your tank if needed. You’ll also want to make sure you have your driving licence and any insurance/breakdown cover information should you need it. 

The Full Checklist at a Glace

Weekly

• Tyre pressure and condition
• Engine oil level
• Screenwash level
• Visual check of lights and indicators

Monthly

• Tyre tread depth
• Tyre wear 
• Coolant level
• Brake fluid level
• Wipers not smearing
• Number plate cleanliness
• Horn

Every six months

• Battery health
• Engine Air filter change
• Cabin filter change
• Air conditioning flush
• Visual check of spare wheel and repair kit

Annually

• Oil change
• Keeping up with servicing

Seasonally

• Winter provisions check
• Tyre check 
• Air conditioning and/or heating check

Warning Lights and What to Do

Red Lights That Mean Stop

Red lights indicate a serious, potentially dangerous, issue and you must stop as soon as it is safe to do so  and take the car to a professional mechanic as soon as possible.

These can include:

• Brake System Alert
  • This could be as simple as the handbrake still being on, but could also refer to the fluid being low or a malfunction within the system itself. Whatever the cause, brake issues are a serious problem and must be dealt with immediately.
• Power Steering Warning
  • Power steering failure can be an incredibly dangerous fault with a car. In some cases a system reset can sort it by pulling over, turning the engine off and waiting a minute. However, if this doesn’t work then a professional must be called.
• Battery Warning
  • A faulty battery will cause more problems than you perhaps realise, so it’s important to sort this out as soon as you see the light appear. However, it may not be the battery at fault, and if the battery seems okay after being checked over by a pro, you may be looking at alternator problems instead.
• Oil Warning
  • An oil can (that looks a bit like the Genie’s lamp) warning means your car’s lubrication won’t be working as intended, which can be causing no end of issues throughout the engine bay. Regularly checking your oil levels should keep this one at bay.
• Engine Temperature warning
  • A regular warning sign before an engine expires, this light usually signifies you’re low on coolant or your head gasket is about to malfunction. If it’s just the coolant and caught early enough, you could be safe, but head gasket issues often lead to very pricey garage trips to rectify.
• Airbag fault
  • If there’s a fault with the airbag, then either yourself or your passengers are put in unnecessary danger in the event of an accident. The moment you see an airbag warning, you must get it checked professionally as soon as possible.
• Doors/Bonnet/Boot Open
  • While not a mechanical fault, these lights do show up red as having a door open while driving along is a pretty basic safety fault. Pull over when safe to do so and ensure that whatever is open is securely shut. If it fails to shut, you’ll need to get this repaired immediately, otherwise you pose a risk to yourself and all other road users.

Amber Lights That Mean Book It In

Amber warnings are notifications that something is amiss and should be seen to, but not as a matter of urgency and not with immediate safety concerns. These can include:

• Engine management warning
  • One of the most dreaded lights on the entire dashboard, the engine management light is often accompanied by a noticeable drop in power. While not a red “stop the car now” warning, this should still be taken to a garage as soon as possible before any significant damage can be caused.
• Low coolant level
  • This light acts more as a reminder than a warning, as it gives you plenty of notice to top up your coolant before any major impact is made,
• Diesel Particulate Filter warning
  • Only found on diesels, this is quite a common light among diesel owners who only do short trips. The easiest way to fix it is to head to the nearest dual carriageway or motorway and drive over 40mph at 3000rpm for 15-20 minutes, which is a known method for clearing DPFs.
• Change in tyre pressure
  • A regular light as temperatures drop and winter returns, this light serves as a reminder to check your tyre pressure and ensure they’re operating where they need to. These can also be the telltale signs of punctures or deflations.

Lights That Come and Go

Some lights are to be expected on your dashboard, and these come and go just by normal driving practices. Obvious examples of this include the notification of your lights being on, such as side lights, full beams, foglights and indicators. Most modern cars will also show when the vehicle’s stop/start system is in use, while hybrid cars also show when a vehicle has entered electric vehicle mode.

Preparing for the MOT

Preventable Failures to Check First

Some MOT fails are easily avoided, and all it takes is a little maintenance and preparation before heading for the test. 

• Lights – Around a quarter of all MOT failures are due to an issue with the lights. One blown bulb can cause a failure, so make sure you’re regularly checking these are all in working order.
• Tyres – Regularly checking your tread depth is another important piece of maintenance that many car owners neglect. The simple 20p test is an easy way of checking. Yes, if it’s low you’ll need to replace the tyres, but that’s still cheaper than replacing the tyres having just paid for a failed MOT.
• View of the road – Keep on top of any chips or cracks in your windscreen, remembering that anything more than 10mm in the drivers line of sight (or 40mm anywhere else on the screen) will cause an MOT fail. Torn or split wiper blades can also fail the test, so a quick replacement before you go in is never a bad idea. This is also the case with the rear window, so make sure there is no clutter obscuring the view in the boot or on the parcel shelf.
• Number plate visibility – You can’t pass an MOT if they can’t clearly read your numberplate from 20 metres away, so one quick wipe could be what saves you from an MOT failure. 
• Horn – Believe it or not, you can fail an MOT for not having a working horn. One of the easiest things to check for before you go in, give a quick blast to check it’s still working.

Is an MOT the same as a service?

No. An MOT is an annual safety check across (almost) all vehicles on the road. A service is specific to your car and is focused on ensuring the car performs to its best for the longest time possible. MOTs are not related to car performance at all, and focused solely on ensuring you are safe when on the road.

When is your first MOT due?

The first MOT is due for a car when it reaches three years old (or four in Northern Ireland). This is based on when the car is first registered with the DVLA, not when you first buy it. 

After a car reaches three years old, it requires an MOT every year. You can check when your MOT is due either by looking at the first registration date on your V5C or by using the official Gov.uk MOT Status page.

MOT and Servicing Rules Across the UK

England Scotland and Wales

There is no legal requirement to get your car serviced, however it is highly recommended by vehicle manufacturers to get your car serviced every six or twelve months. An MOT, on the other hand, is a legal requirement every year after the car has reached three years old.

Failure to have a valid MOT is a crime and can land you a fine of up to £1,000. Driving a car that an MOT would deem to have dangerous defects can reach a fine of up to £2,500 and three penalty points on your licence.

Northern Ireland and DVA

MOT rules are very different in Northern Ireland compared to the rest of the UK. For starters, cars get an additional year on the road before they require an MOT, with cars not needing to be tested until the fourth anniversary of its registration. 

Another key difference in Northern Ireland is, unlike in Great Britain, you can’t simply take your car to any local mechanic or garage to carry out the test. MOTs can only be carried out at one of 15 official Driver and Vehicle Agency (DVA) test centres. Because of this, booking a test can often be a major hurdle and need to be planned well in advance. 

Does an Electric Car Need Less Maintenance

In general, yes, electric cars do require less maintenance than their internal combustion engine (ICE) counterparts. This is due to the fact there are far fewer moving parts.. There’s also no oil changes to worry about, no timing chains, fuel or exhaust systems and almost all EVs have no gearing system aside from the single-speed gearbox.

What Still Needs Checking

You must make sure you stay on top of the things that do need checking. Items such as windscreen washer fluid and the brake systems still need to be kept in check, while tyres actually require you to be even more vigilant.

Brakes and Regenerative Braking

EVs use a process known as ‘regenerative braking’ to slow down rather than pure braking in the traditional sense. This means that when you lift your foot off the accelerator pedal, the electric motor runs in reverse to slow down, turning itself into a generator in the process. The energy created from this is then stored back in the battery for use by the electric motor.

For this reason, the brake pedal can be used much less often, resulting in much less wear on brake pads through friction. In certain settings, you could even drive without even touching the brake pedal.

The 12V Battery

While the power of an EV comes from the much larger high-voltage battery packs used to drive the wheels, it does still have a traditional 12V battery. 

Even if your main driving batteries are fully charged, if the 12V battery runs out, then the car won’t drive at all.

Keeping Service Records

Paper Books and Digital Records

Having a physical copy of your car’s service records can be highly beneficial, both in terms of your car’s value but also because it provides you with a clear record of all maintenance that has been carried out on your car.

It can also serve to protect your warranty, as stamps in your service book and a collection of receipts can show manufacturers that you have been keeping up with the approved maintenance suggestions.

How Records Affect Resale Value

Having a complete service history can be key to getting an even better price for your car when selling at any time, not just scrap or salvage. Here’s what our Regional Sales Manager, and expert in the scrap, salvage and end-of-life automotive sector, Matt Clamp has to say about service records:

“A complete service history can increase your car’s value by up to 20%, while missing information can lower it by almost 40%. This is because a complete service history gives an accurate snapshot of your car’s history, and how it has been looked after. Having no paper trail at all can be a very common reason that used car sales fail to complete, with prospective buyers not prepared to take the risk on a car with potentially questionable history.”

Kit Worth Keeping in the Car

It’s always worth keeping a small collection of essential tools equipment in the boot of your car, in the event of emergencies. Aside from personal safety gear, such as a hi-vis jacket, torch, first aid kit, phone charger and warning triangle, you should also have a handful of actual tools.

What Car Maintenance Costs

Budgeting for Wear Items

You should aim to budget somewhere around £500 each year for general wear and tear across your car – although it could be more or less depending on your specific car and what type of service you are requiring that year.

Annual services can cost anything from £150 to upwards of £400 alone, while the annual MOT will cost a maximum of £54.85. Outside of servicing and MOT, tyres can cost from £50-£100 per tyre (or more if you need larger sizes or a more premium brand). Brakes, meanwhile, can also cost anything between £80-£200 per axle for pads, or close to £400 if discs are needed as well.

Getting a Clear Quote From a Garage

If budget is a concern for you, you should make sure to speak to your garage before the work is carried out to get a clear idea of how much the work is going to cost. Remember you will need to not only factor in the cost of the part, but the cost of the labour on top. 

When Is a Car No Longer Worth Repairing?

Comparing the Bill With the Car’s Value

Having a look online at the value of your car will give you a good starting point to determining whether it’s worth repairing or not. Remember to take the value of the car if it was still in full working order before the need for any repairs. If the repairs are likely to cost within the region of the car’s value, then it’s unlikely to be worth repairing it at all.

Faults That Usually End a Car

The engine and gearbox are two of the most expensive parts in a car, and major issues to either of these are likely to push the car into the “uneconomical to repair” category. 

Matt Clamp’s input:

“Replacing an engine will cost around £4,000 for a super, super cheap engine, anywhere up to around £40,000. On average it’ll be around £7,000-£8,000. Gearboxes, meanwhile will likely cost around £3,000 to £5,000 for a manual, and between £5,000 and £10,000 for an automatic ‘box.”

Another issue that can regularly push a car beyond being economically viable to repair is rust, particularly chassis corrosion. An automatic fail on the MOT, rust is notoriously difficult to repair, and very hard to sell on if a buyer knows the car has had a history of corrosion problems.

Electricals also carry a heavy repair bill, and if you’ve had a complete failure of your car’s computer system or have seen water damage to the electronics, chances are it’s going to cost much more than is sensible to repair. 

Repair, Sell or Scrap

Whether you need to repair, sell or scrap is a decision that only you can make, and isn’t as easy as just looking at some sums. You need to factor in everything, including the specific make and model of your car and any personal circumstances you’re in. Thankfully, we’re experts at this, and if you give our team a call, we’ll be more than happy to talk you through all of your options and find the very best solution for you.

Taking a Car Off the Road

Declaring SORN

Declaring a car as SORN is a very simple process and is totally free on the DVLA website. 

Looking After a Stored Car

If you’re looking after a car that’s going to be stored for long periods of time, then the most important thing to do is ensure that it’s stored safely, securely and cleanly right from the start. Give the interior and exterior a thorough clean to ensure there is nothing that could encourage rust to form on the bodywork, and no crumbs of food that could encourage the growth of mould or vermin into the car. It’s highly recommended to place a breathable cover over the car to protect it further against dust and accidental bumps and scratches.

Scrapping Through an Authorised Treatment Facility

If you’re looking to scrap your car, then the only place this can be done legally is at an Authorised Treatment Facility. If you’re using Scrap Car Comparison, then this isn’t a worry for you, as we’ll only ever sell a car as scrap to a registered and trusted ATF. If you require a Certificate of Destruction, make sure you request one and this will be provided once your car has been scrapped.

Before it is put through the crusher, your car will have its valuable and hazardous materials removed in a process known as depollution. It will then be put through the scrapping process, where 95% of it will be recycled as required by law.

Maintenance Mistakes to Avoid

The biggest mistake you can make with car maintenance is ignoring any obvious warning signs – if your car is telling you something is amiss, it’ll be for a reason. Assuming a warning light will just “go away” can lead to driving a ticking time bomb just waiting for a major breakdown.

More information

We have many more guides on how to keep cars running safely on the road, read more here:

• Things That Will Fail an MOT
• Will Excessive Acceleration Damage Your Car
• Can I take My Electric Car to Any Garage?
• Is It Safe to Use Second Hand Parts for Your Car?
• How Long Can You Drive on a Spare Tyre?

FAQs

What is the difference between an MOT and a service?

An MOT is a legally required safety check that all cars 3 years or older (or 4 in Northern Ireland) must pass in order to be road legal. A service is a maintenance and performance check carried out at manufacturer-suggested intervals. Quite often, any warranty will be tied to keeping the vehicle’s service record intact.

Can I service my own car?

Yes you can, providing you have the relevant experience and knowledge to do so safely. It’s worth noting, however, on some manufacturer finance agreements on new cars that the warranty will only remain valid if the car is serviced professionally.

Does getting my car serviced at an independent garage affect the warranty?

Getting a car serviced at an independent garage will not have any impact on your car’s warranty. UK competition law and the Motor Vehicle Block Exemption Order states that manufacturers cannot void your warranty because you went to another garage. In order to keep the warranty valid, you must still get the car serviced at the suggested intervals, using original equipment manufacturer (OEM) or “equivalent quality” parts and keep an accurate and detailed record of all services carried out.

What happens if you do not service your car?

Failure to service your car will result in parts wearing much faster, your car becoming much less economical and having a much higher risk of breakdown. For example, old oil becomes much thicker than oil that has been regularly changed. This will stop lubricating parts correctly and cause additional friction, which in turn can cause the engine to overheat or even seize.

Filters, both fuel and air, will become blocked and work harder, causing a reduction in engine performance. Your brakes and tyres will also have questionable performance levels, making the car generally much less safe to not only be in, but to share a road with.

How long can a car sit without being driven?

After just two to four weeks of not moving, the battery in your car will begin to discharge, your tyres will start to lose air pressure and potentially develop flat spots and your brakes may begin to develop surface rust. Anything over a month and you will likely start to see more serious problems form with your car, including fluids beginning to break down and increasing the likelihood of breakdowns.